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Dining Out
COMPETENT FOOD, HIGH PRICES
BY BERTIL G. PETERSON
Check the fares. It might be less expensive to fly to San Francisco than to dine at the Napa Grill. While the Fairmont Nile City’s recently opened restaurant serves up an entirely competent menu in a generally pleasing venue, the out-the-door cost can leave an unpleasant taste on the palate.
Located on the second floor of one of Cairo’s newest luxury hotels, “Napa Grill’s primary style will be defined as having strong links to the sunny cuisine of Califormia being built on its cultural influences – a complete melting pot of Spanish, Mediterranean and Mexican influences,” according to the Fairmont’s website. The site goes on to say that the “Califormian grill” concept – a somewhat disturbing image, grilling Californians – will be executed “within a casual, hip yet high-quality setting.”
At 6:30 on a recent Monday night, the restaurant was indeed casual, hip, high quality... and empty. The soaring ceilings and wall of windows gave the feeling of dining in a ballroom, a sense amplified by the distance between us and the two coffee-sipping women who were the only other patrons in sight. Although the Napa Grill offers a panoramic view of the Nile, tables next to the windows are placed in front of the wide support columns so that diners have obstructed-view seats. The acoustical dynamics of the room made the incessant elevator music seem louder and more annoying that it otherwise might have been. Of course, the flip side is that my companion and I were able to converse unimpeded by the chatter of a crowd or clatter of plates.
A confession: I am a reluctant reviewer. Although I have eaten out my fair share – yes, including in California – my idea of a superior dining experience is really good food and wine in the familiar comforts of home. Consequently, I am unhappy when I spend a great deal more than necessary on life’s necessities, such as food. Secondly, I dislike judging the efforts of others, especially in enterprises with as many variables as restaurants.
Now, let’s eat.
Given the theme of the Napa Grill, we decided to start with some California-ish appetizers. We opted for the San Francisco Style Fisherman’s Seafood Stew (LE 98) and the Red Sea Blue Crab Cake (LE 122). The tomato-based stew, served nice and hot, included (yes, we counted them) two mussels, one scallop, one shrimp and not enough spices, at least for our liking. I say “we” because “we” always share. I hear the shrimp was good, though. The crab cake – served with lemon aioli, avocado, grapefruit and tomato-cumin salsa – was a disappointment. Like the stew, it didn’t have enough seasoning for our tastes. Unlike the stew, it was served at a curiously tepid temperature that rendered it a bland dish with an unappealing texture. These are just two of the nine starters or salads on the menu, but they are the ones that caught our eye. Other choices include Artichoke Cappuccino (LE 78), Napa Greens (LE 82), Romaine Salad (LE 72), the Chef’s Ceviche Tasting (LE 98), Carpaccio of Beef (LE 88) and Shiitake Mushroom Potstickers (LE 98). The most expensive starter, at LE 158, was Foie Gras Torchon, with almonds, pickled cherries and brioche crostini.
The menu offers a couple of ways to go for the main course. There were 10 self-contained choices, ranging in price from LE 92 for the California Carbonara to LE 208 for the Marinated US Angus Beef Tenderloin. We chose the Herb-Mustard Marinated Lambchops (LE 178) and Mediterranean Sea Bass (LE 168), which was, curiously, one of only two seafood entrees along with Grilled Freshwater Prawns (LE 172). The sea bass was served on a bed of asparagus, salsify, cannelloni bean puree and lime butter that, aside from the absence of the asparagus tips, was quite good. The fish itself was fresh, flaky and tender. The three lambchops were propped against a satisfying layer of wild mushroom risotto with Asiago cheese, Swiss chard and pomegranate. The meat, which we thought was a little too fatty, was ordered well done and arrived a bit overcooked.
Not much California inspiration was evident in the seven side dishes: Truffle Macaroni and Fontina Cheese is about as creative as it gets. We chose Brussels Sprouts with Beef Bacon, Apple Brunoise, which came swimming in a light creamy sauce that effectively drowned the delicate flavor of the very young sprouts.
For those who would rather assemble their own dish, Napa offers a grill menu. The idea is to pick from among nine meat or seafood offerings and pair them with one of five sauces: chimichurri, truffle aioli, béarnaise, mushroom cream or clear jus. Grill items range in price from LE 148 to LE 208 and include sauce and side. Steak lovers have the option of adding sautéed foie gras (LE 98) or blue cheese (LE 25).
At this point it should be noted that the grill drill requires some study and/or explanation. Unfortunately, our server was not up to the task because of a very limited command of English. Communication was confusing for all of us, so much so that I flagged down the maître d’ to make sure my order had been correctly received. Despite several attempts, I never was able to discern for certain whether a side dish was included with main menu selections. As mentioned previously, I ordered the broccoli, but that was one side for two people and our check reflected no separate, additional charge. Aside from the communication issues, the staff was attentive to a fault.
Seven desserts are available for LE 55 each, and there is a variety of specialty coffees. My companion was pleased with her Keokee coffee (LE 75); I went for the soft-centered chocolate cake with lavender marshmallows and apricot ice cream. The chocolate sauce in the center was very hot and the overall sweetness overpowering. A tart component – raspberry sauce, for example – could take this tasty dessert to the next level.
However fitting it may be given the ambiance and mission of the Napa Grill, indulging in a bottle of California wine is not for the faint of heart. One of the most “reasonably” priced was an old Napa Valley favorite of mine: Robert Mondavi Private Selection Pinot Noir, for which I never paid more than $15 and usually about $10. At the Napa Grill it’s LE 520, or about $95. I am fully aware of the various tariffs, duties, transportation costs and whatnot that make the cost of imported wines prohibitive, but still. Another sore point was LE 45 for a medium-sized bottle of water.
Add in the 10 percent sales tax and 12 percent service charge, and a dinner for two at the Napa Grill can add up fast. Our final bill, believe it or not: LE 1,561.67.
Thankfully, while waiting for dessert we were brought a small pot of the best coffee I have had in Egypt, with delightful small meringue cookies and four chocolate truffles – two white and two dark. My companion, an avowed chocolate connoisseur, said they were among the best she had ever had. To top it off, there was no charge.
Mom and Dad were right: The best things in life are free.
Napa Grill
Fairmont Nile City
Nile City Towers
2005B Corniche Al Nil
Ramlet Boulaq
Cairo
Tel: 2461-9494
Open daily from 6am to 11pm
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