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THE GOOD AND THE BLAND
BY RASHAD MAHMOOD
When a restaurant chain opens its first branch in Egypt, I’m not usually too excited. Typically it’s some US conglomerate with a variation on “American” food, such as hamburgers, steaks and french fries. But a seafood restaurant that started in Nairobi? Sign me up.
Tamarind follows in the footsteps of Carnivore, also started by the Kenyan Tamarind Group. In its native country, Tamarind has won numerous awards, including being named Kenya’s best restaurant in 2005, 2006 and 2007, so I was looking forward to the experience. While dinner was good overall, the standard advice about seafood in Cairo still applies: for the really good stuff, go to Alexandria.
Situated on the Trianon Nile Dragon boat in Giza, the restaurant shares space with two other restaurants, so sushi or Thai food can be ordered alongside Tamarind’s seafood. Dining on the river is always pleasant, and the Nile Dragon boat plays it up for maximum effect. The shared dining room, on the top level of the boat, is framed by glass panels with gaps at the top and bottom that minimize any sense of separation from the outdoors, though that can be a disadvantage on a chilly evening. The decor is ultramodern, dominated by blue hues, with glowing columns skirting the perimeter and fish tanks throughout the dining area. Outdoor seating is, of course, also an option. The decor is all the more remarkable after passing through the boat’s entry hall, which has seen better days and is badly in need of refurbishment.
Other than waiting a little while for our menus, service was impeccable – courses were timed well, water and other drinks were refilled regularly, and our inquiries about the dishes were answered in detail. The service was so good, in fact, that it served as a stark reminder of how inadequate the waitstaff can be at other Cairo establishments.
The food started off with a bang. To counteract the effects of the cold, we went with Tamarind Fish Soup (LE 19) and Spicy Prawn Coconut Soup (LE 29). Both were excellent. The fish soup is touted on the menu as an Indian Ocean version of the Provençal dish bouillabaisse, and was bright and flavorful. Basically a seafood stew, the dish included chunks of fish, clams, mussels and calamari, brought together by a tangy and spicy tomato-based sauce. Like a traditional bouillabaisse, it was accompanied by a rouille, a mixture of olive oil, garlic and chili peppers similar in texture to mayonnaise. The flavors of each type of seafood in the soup stood out and were not overwhelmed by the dish as a whole, making every bite distinctive.
The spicy prawn soup was not particularly spicy, but still delicious. A Thai-style soup, it featured a strong burst of lemongrass and nailed that tangy-salty combination that makes southeast Asian cuisine so appealing. The prawns were well cooked and plentiful. Both soups were among the best my dining partner and I have experienced in Cairo, and are highly recommended. To round out the appetizers, we also sampled the Calamari Maridadi (LE 32), which was served grilled over a bed of mixed greens with a citrus-based sauce. The calamari was cooked to perfection, which is impressive since it can easily be overcooked. Overall it was good, though clearly not at the same level as the soups.
Tamarind has an enormous array of choices when it comes to entrées. Like at traditional Egyptian seafood restaurants, you can pick an item, how you like it cooked and what sauces you want. Options include fish, prawns, lobster, shellfish, crab, calamari – basically whatever seafood you can think of, they have it. In addition, there are standard entrées, from which we chose the Seafood Swahili (LE 139) and Prawns Piri Piri (LE 129). The Seafood Swahili was remarkably bland, considering the menu said it included tamarind and chili. Perhaps the chef is toning things down for the Egyptian palate. Like the Tamarind Fish Soup, it featured an eclectic mix of seafood, but the tomato and coconut sauce was under-seasoned. On the upside, it was served in a massive oyster shell that made for an attractive contrast with the red seafood stew.
With the Prawns Piri Piri, the chef didn’t hold back; the sauce was loaded with garlic, chili, limes and other flavors. As soon as it was set down we knew it would be good. The prawns were served with the shell on, which is usually a good sign, but unfortunately they had either been grilled a bit too long or weren’t fresh, as the texture was dry and somewhat rubbery. Despite the lackluster prawns, the sauce was so good it almost made up for it.
Unfortunately, with a sample size of one, it is hard to pass judgement on the desserts at Tamarind, but our choice was extremely disappointing and by far the low point of the meal. The description of the Arabic Coffee Tiramisu (LE 23) was tantalizing – mixing coffee, cardamom and, of course, tiramisu. How could it go wrong? Continuing the theme of flavors promised on the menu but undetectable to the palate, the cardamom was missing in action. The coffee was at best a light dusting that barely impacted the flavor. And it wasn’t really tiramisu at all. Instead, the usually light and luscious mascarpone filling was thick and heavy, and squirted into a cup like soft-serve ice cream. Instead of delicate lady fingers, small cookies were added as garnish to the cream filling, so that the dessert consisted almost entirely of what should have been the filling. To be fair, the small pieces of chocolate served with it were excellent, if insufficient to rescue the dish.
While an evening at Tamarind can make for a delightful outing, it is best to be aware of the limitations. Nile view? Check. Modern, sleek decor? Check. Excellent service? Check. Excellent food? Well, as we were leaving I couldn’t help but think that they needed to read Jim Collins’ book Good to Great. While a few dishes stood out, notably the soups, most felt like they needed a little extra something. Although Tamarind has been open several months, as we were leaving they asked for our contact information so that they could let us know when they have their official opening. Maybe they realize that they still have a bit of work to do.
TAMARIND
Trianon Nile Dragon Boat
23 Nile Street, Giza
Open Sun-Thu from 3pm to midnight; Fri-Sat from 1pm to midnight
016 660-9996
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