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FLYING KNIVES AND GARLIC PRAWNS
BY SARAH BROBERG
Watching Japanese cooking is always a spectacle. The energetic
chef prepares the food on a flat hibachi grill in the middle of
a large table where the diners are seated. Flying spatulas, knives,
food and condiments are all part of the act. It’s so entertaining
it’s easy to forget you’re waiting to eat.
Fusion, a recent addition to the Americana repertoire of eateries,
boasts not only energetic chefs, but also a tantalizing array of
Asian dishes. The Nile-side restaurant incorporates rich dark red
and deep green tones, creating a refined atmosphere that’s
not the least bit stuffy. The large grill-tables by the windows
provide an enchanting view of the river, though there are other
more secluded seating options at the far side of the restaurant
for those who prefer a little less excitement with their meal.
Fusion offers three menus to choose from: an impressive sushi menu,
the teppanyaki menu, which consists of a selection of stir-fried
seafood, poultry, meat and vegetables cooked on the grill, and the
Fusion menu, which has a Chinese focus.
The Chinese Chicken Salad (LE 15) proved an excellent appetizer.
The plate of fresh shredded cabbage came mixed with sliced green
and yellow peppers in a tangy horseradish-style dressing with a
swirl of mild garlic mayo on the side. It was a good start, and
only the first of two salads we would try.
From the teppanyaki menu, Fusion offers a set combination meal (LE
130) of 10 items that includes salads, seafood, chicken, beef and
dessert. Ours began with the Sakura Salad. Made with shredded lettuce,
cabbage, onion and carrot topped in a light mayo dressing with a
hint of sesame oil, the small salad was an ideal way to begin the
feast. It came accompanied by a side of pickles (tsukemono) that
included tangy, paper-thin slices of ginger, white radish and cucumber
to cleanse the palate for the next course.
As we finished the salad, the chef prepared the grill. Separate
plates for the meat, chicken, seafood, vegetables and pre-cooked
rice were lined up on one side of the smooth, gleaming grill top.
A tray to the right contained additional ingredients including eggs,
butter, a minced garlic/onion sauté, vinegar, sesame oil,
peanut oil, salt, pepper and, of course, soy sauce. As the chef
calibrated the grill, piping hot miso soup arrived. While the soup
was tasty, it could have used more flavor. Apart from two small
strips of seaweed there were no additional ingredients such as tofu
or mushrooms to embellish the miso stock.
But by the time we finished the soup, the show had began and we
really weren’t thinking about it. The friendly and talented
chef began with the vegetable fried rice. He tossed the peas and
carrots onto the searing hot grill and added a bit of butter before
mixing in the pre-cooked rice. With spatulas clattering and condiments
flying, an egg was scrambled and added to the rice and vegetables.
Pushing the rice to one corner, he whisked two eggs in a bowl and
then carefully poured them onto the grill, taking care to spread
them out until just a paper-thin layer remained. After the omelet
was fully cooked, he folded it over and over and began expertly
slicing it while simultaneously catapulting bits of egg into the
rice on the other side of the grill.
The fried rice complemented the Kung-pao Chicken (LE 32), which
we ordered separate from the combination meal. The large chunks
of chicken marinated in seasoning salt and sesame oil made for a
savory treat. Bell peppers, onions, green onions and garlic were
all beautifully sautéed with a bit of ginger root and chili
paste for a bit of a kick. A generous helping of roasted peanuts
sprinkled on top gave the dish a pleasant crunchiness.
Meanwhile, back on the combination meal, the chef was preparing
the fresh seafood. Dropping two jumbo shrimp on the grill he asked
if we wanted them prepared with or without the shell. We preferred
peeled and he promptly unsheathed an impressive knife hanging from
the obi belt of his Japanese uniform and masterfully took to the
task. He sliced the shrimp into small pieces and added a generous
amount of butter, a dash of garlic and a sprinkle of seasoning salt.
While the shrimp cooked, he put a large portion of calamari onto
the grill with soy sauce, garlic, peanut oil, vinegar, salt and
pepper.
Our mouths watered. The garlic and butter infused the shrimp leaving
an unbelievably delicious flavor. The calamari was also wonderful,
perfectly grilled and tender, though a tad acidic, perhaps from
too much vinegar.
For his final act the chef spread the beef, chicken and vegetables
over the grill. He piled the vegetables including bean sprouts,
cabbage, carrots and onion and then sliced each chicken fillet into
pieces and seasoned them with butter, garlic, soy, sesame oil, salt
and pepper, and a dash of vinegar. All were thoroughly delicious,
though the chicken seemed to suffer from the same slightly acidic
taste as the calamari.
After polishing off the main course, a bowl of fruit salad arrived
– the final part of the combination meal. The freshly sliced
apples, cantaloupe and oranges were tempting, but who could still
have room?
Fusion
Corniche Al Nil
Maadi, 2nd Entrance
Tel: 380-0210
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