AN ISLAND OF OPTIONS
BY SARAH BROBERG
In Cairo, new restaurants sprout up like dandelions, and often
disappear just as fast. The latest burst of growth has seen a crop
of new restaurants in Zamalek. Business Monthly reviewed some of
the island’s new arrivals.
The Living Room, a subterranean lounge and restaurant on a side
street near the Fish Garden, is probably more sophisticated, though
a tad less comfortable, than your own living room. Black leather
sofas cluster cozily at the end of this stylish straight-line eatery,
but the remaining length is somewhat awkwardly split by a high counter
rimmed by bar stools.
The menu is inspiring – a selection of soups, salads, sandwiches
and light entrées made from high-quality and sometimes exotic
ingredients – at least for Cairo. Even the basic chef salad
(£E 28) shows unusual flair, with a selection of tasty toppings
complementing its otherwise ordinary base of iceberg lettuce. The
salad comes topped with fresh mushrooms, carrot flakes, sweet corn,
potato salad made with fried salmon and fish gnocchi, and lemon
chili prawn sate, all smothered with a creamy Caesar dressing.
It’s worth trying the Baconita Sandwich (£E 12.5) –
sliced turkey breast and pastrami mixed with homemade pickled cornichons
and topped with cucumber, lettuce and hot tecino sauce served on
fresh bread. The acclaimed Grilled Steak Sandwich (£E 17),
meanwhile, is a grilled 1/4-inch-thick marinated steak filet served
on lightly toasted, buttered panini bread and topped with two strips
of grilled shredded beef ham, fried onion rings and garlic butter.
Wow. Too bad the accompanying potato salad, made with a bit too
much mayo, was disappointingly bland.
The Living Room gets all of its desserts from Trianon bakery and
offers a selection of their best cakes and pastries including a
decadent cherry cheesecake (£E 18) with a shaved almond crust
and a luscious carrot cake (£E 13) with rich cream cheese
frosting. The restaurant also has a full selection of juices and
coffee drinks – and even serves breakfast.
On the opposite side of the island, Zamalek’s first Greek
restaurant has found a home on the shore beside the ever-popular
Le Pacha 1901 boat. Greek Taverna – with its whitewashed walls,
checkered tablecloths and Mediterranean blue accents – aims
to capture the feel of the sun-drenched Peloponnese islands.
Certainly it has with its Greek signature dishes. Starters include
a tasty Melitzano Salata (£E 17.50) – an aubergine salad
consisting of large slices of lightly fried eggplant topped with
marinara sauce, feta cheese and oregano – and Keftedes (£E
22.5) – Greek meatballs made from minced beef combined with
fresh mint and a small amount of yoghurt to maintain shape and moistness.
Highly recommended is the Arni Youvetsi (lamb with orzo, £E
46), which arrives piping hot in a clay pot. The Greek Souvlaki
(mixed grill, £E 46) is another safe bet – a platter
of smoky lamb kebab, Vienna sausage and mouthwatering tarb (minced
beef wrapped in lamb fat). The grilled chicken, unfortunately, comes
out a bit too dry.
For dessert, be sure to try traditional baklava, or at the very
least Rizogalo (rice pudding). Or just cozy up to the well-stocked
blue neon bar. And while there’s no plate tossing or Zorba
dancing, the flat-screen TV on the back wall adds its own cultural
ambiance with an endless stream of Greek pop music videos.
For more Mediterranean fare, head for La Trattoria. The sharp-looking
new Italian restaurant occupies a narrow ground-floor space that
has seen high turnover in recent years. Previously an Asian restaurant
and before that a bar, La Trattoria’s owners insist they’re
in it for the long run.
The first thing guests inevitably comment on is just how white everything
is. The stark white walls and tablecloths give the impression the
restaurant is carved out of snow. When busy, however, La Trattoria
is a sophisticated yet convivial eatery that could pass for its
counterparts in Milan or Rome. Indeed, its impeccably organized
bar, impressive drinks menu and framed Italian liquor ads suggest
it has a strong pull from that side of the Mediterranean.
But unlike a traditional Italian trattoria, which has no written
menu, the menu here is comprehensive. And if the management’s
other restaurant – Charwood’s in Mohandiseen –
is anything to go by, there are no “bad choices.” If
you’re in the mood for pasta, try the potato gnocchi with
tomato and sweet basil sauce (£E 29) or the green lasagna
with bolognese sauce (£E 49) – both made using the finest
imported and homemade ingredients. The beef brochettes in red wine
sauce (£E 85), meanwhile, are a memorable house specialty,
but if you’re in the mood for seafood it would be a shame
to miss the baked shrimps with capers, gherkin and lemon sauce (£E
120).
Save room for the mouthwatering homemade desserts, including an
almond apple tart (£E 29) and cassata with caramelized orange
(£E 29). A good selection of local and imported alcohol is
also available.
When the sun sets, Cairo’s smart set gather at Bora Bora,
Zamalek’s newest open-air nightspot on the Nile. The split-level
lounge offers brilliant river views from comfortable chairs and
spacious sofas set beneath a canopy of palm fronds, and with plenty
of oscillating fans providing a cool, albeit artificial, breeze.
It’s relaxing enough, but if you want to shake your groove
there’s enough room for that too and a high-power stereo system
to make it happen.
But for many, Bora Bora is – like its tropical island namesake
– just a place to chill out and relax. And what better way
to do that than over a few drinks at the sleek, darkwood bar with
a commanding view of the evening’s festivities and the Nile.
And for those who prefer their views over a shisha, the full repertoire
of flavors is available.
The menu has all the makings of a filling meal, including a sizeable
Bora Bora Beef Filet (£E 52), but it’s not unusual for
guests arriving late to skip straight to the dessert. Definitely
don’t miss the chocolate crepe (£E 18), a fluffy crepe
stuffed full of rich chocolate syrup, topped with cocoa drizzle
and several dollops of real whipped cream.
Bora Bora’s management imposes a strict £E 50 per person
minimum charge, exclusive of alcohol. It also insists on reservations,
though tends to be more relaxed about the issue before the place
heats up around 11pm.
The Living Room
19 Gabelaya Street
Zamalek
Tel: 735-0206
Greek Taverna
Le Pacha 1901 Boat
Zamalek
Tel: 735-6730
La Trattoria
13 Marashly Street
Zamalek
Tel: 735-0470
Bora Bora
3 Gabelaya Street
Zamalek
Tel: 291-7637/7729
Reservations: 010 995-7910 |
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