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Dining Out
Nawab offers taste of India
By Rashad Mahmood
Nawab is a welcome addition to Zamalek’s dining scene, featuring a strong mix of traditional Indian cuisines from across the country, with a few special twists. The food tastes as if it were made by an Indian grandmother and, indeed, as we were leaving I caught a glimpse of an older woman in traditional dress in conversation with another member of the staff. I smiled, hoping that if she were the chef, she would know we were appreciative.
Nawab is located on Bahgat Aly Street near the tip of Zamalek, around the corner from Sequoia. The decor is straightforward. Low-key lights, prints of classic Indian art and simple polished black tables combine for a pleasing atmosphere. But Nawab isn’t about ambiance; it’s about the food.
We were greeted by one of the restaurant’s co-owners, who said that he and his wife operated an Indian restaurant in Beirut for six years until the war with Israel in 2006. When we inquired about which dishes he would recommend, he didn’t hesitate to single out a few favorites, speaking lovingly of the dishes, as if they were his children. We made sure to follow his advice.
For appetizers, we sampled the Vegetable Samosa (LE 12), Shami Kabab (LE 20) and Masala Pappadom (LE 9). The samosas were a delight, with not too spicy filling and thin, crisp shells. Very traditional, very good. The Shami Kabab, a patty of ground lamb, lentils and mint, was satisfactory though it seemed bland compared to the bright flavors of the rest of the meal. The Masala Pappadom was quite excellent, and may just be the perfect appetizer. Pappadoms are thin sheets of fried lentil flour and, when made right, are crisp yet almost melt in the mouth. The pappadoms at Nawab were topped with a mixture of chopped tomatoes, onions and cilantro reminiscent of Mexican salsa, and the combination was a real winner.
After the delightful appetizers, it was time for the main courses. We ordered Chicken Kadai (LE 36), Lamb Balti Masala (LE 50) and Brinjal Patiala (LE 24). Instead of plain rice, we went for the Chicken Biryani (LE 35). The portions were large, and we ended up taking quite a bit of food home with us. I can unequivocally say that everything was good. Surprisingly, the best was probably the Brinjal Patiala, an Indian version of the Egyptian moussaka. Both are fried eggplant dishes in tomato-based sauce, but that’s where the similarity ends. Nawab’s sauce is mysteriously delicious. It has a complex, tangy flavor that is hard to place. The menu says the sauce is made from cashews and dried fruit. It could be made from eye of newt and toe of frog for all I care – it was absolutely delicious. The sauce’s essence permeated the eggplant so that every bite was bursting with Indian spices.
The Chicken Kadai also was excellent, featuring tender chunks of meat in a spicy sauce with onions and bell peppers. Lamb balti masala is a traditional dish from the Punjab region and was done very well. The lamb was extremely tender and the sauce delicious. Unlike the other dishes, there were no vegetables with this one, just meat and sauce. The balti masala also is available with prawns, which sounds like it would be a great combination if the quality of prawns is good. The Chicken Biryani was tasty, but not a standout compared to the other dishes. It was a bit under-seasoned, although when matched with the flavorful curries the combination worked well. It also arrived a bit after the other dishes, leaving us to start on the entrées without rice to go with them.
The sides we had were also excellent. The Raita (LE 10) had more vegetables than usual, which was a good thing, although it could have used a bit more mint. The Garlic Butter Naan (LE 7) was fluffy as a cloud and garnished with sesame seeds, adding a bit of crunchiness. Alcohol was not available, so I had a Mango Lassi (LE 14). I would have preferred a higher yoghurt-to-mango ratio, but it was tasty and an excellent counterpoint to the spicier dishes.
Our server was attentive and extremely polite, even though Egypt’s national team was playing a football match in the background. An occasional cheer livened up the meal and may have explained why the restaurant was nearly empty. We did have to ask for napkins, which were not part of the place settings, but that was a relatively minor hiccup.
One note of caution is in order. This is traditional Indian cooking at its finest, and many of the dishes, notably the Brinjal Patiala, were quite heavy. Because we among the few diners, we were fortunate to get some personal attention from one of the co-owners. When it became clear from our questions that we were interested in a high-quality meal, he asked us if we were in a hurry. When we said we weren’t, he responded that he would tell the cooks to take their time and make everything just right. On a crowded night, such individual attention might not occur. For first-time visitors, it couldn’t hurt to let them know that you aren’t in a rush and expect their finest cooking.
Next time we might try the Tandoori Chicken, or the Chicken or Lamb Vindaloo that were praised by our host. We ended the meal so full that we didn’t have room for dessert, but for those with a taste for Indian sweets, the Gulab Jamun looked delightful. We did have the Masala Chai (LE 8), which is Indian milk tea prepared with a mix of spices, including cardamom, cinnamon and something spicy, possibly ginger. While not for everyone, it’s among my favorite ways to end a meal.
Looking back, it was a delightful evening. Friends had said the food was good at Nawab, but I never imagined just how good it was. Don’t let the neighborhood or modest decor distract. At Nawab, the food is the thing. It is easily one of the best Indian restaurants in Cairo.
Nawab
21B Bahgat Aly Street
Zamalek
Tel: 2736-0433
Open daily from 12:30pm to 11pm
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