|
Dining Out
A sophisticated experience
By Sarah Marquer
Posh, yet simple. Trendy, yet understated. This goes for the Oak Grill’s appearance as well as its food. And the service is pleasant too; attentive, respectful, but not overbearing as in some five-star establishments.
The Oak Grill, formerly the Villa d’Este and located in the Conrad Cairo Hotel, is one of the newest additions to Cairo’s restaurant circuit. While not a venue that I will often indulge in because of the expense, the dinner that my friend and I enjoyed there on a somewhat busy Thursday night in February was genuinely worth it – an experience we’ll save for a special occasion or celebration. As far as pricey restaurants go in Cairo, this is one of the best.
Differentiations in decor give the feel of private sections although the restaurant is composed of one large space. Two narrow columns of translucent glass stand at one end of the restaurant holding racks of wine. It’s a creative and modern interpretation of an ordinary wine rack; I’ll take one for my home, please. Deep and somber blues, grays and browns color the room. Glass-encased lights rest atop dark metallic rods that protrude from the center of the ceiling, a contemporary take on the traditional chandelier.
After being seated, we were served thick slices of warm sourdough and wheat bread accompanied by walnut and salmon butters. Since bread and butter are a staple of my diet, I was quite content with the flavored spreads. Then we were served complimentary shrimp tartar, most likely because the restaurant opened only recently. A small, but potent dappling of tartar was scooped atop a single, cool and crisp edamame pod.
For starters, I opted for the traditional soup and salad combo. The Organic Vegetable Platter (LE 58) featured an assortment of quality organic produce, including slow-roasted beets, steamed spinach (even my green-leafy-vegetable-phobic friend enjoyed it), oven-dried cherry tomatoes (they did not seem cooked in the least and had a fresh-from-the-garden taste), steamed broccoli (which was not listed on the menu), blanched asparagus (which according to the menu was supposed to be grilled) and a peculiar vegetable I didn’t recognize that the waiter called “Egyptian broccoli” (also not on the menu). The latter was an unwelcome addition and a bit bland. Overall, however, I relished such a sampling of healthy food, which was drizzled with caraway dressing. After all, a plateful of assorted fresh and tasty organic vegetables is not exactly commonplace in Cairo.
Perhaps it was because I had not eaten clam chowder since leaving the United States three years ago, or maybe it was the fresh cream, dill and variety of seafood, but the Oak Grill Seafood Chowder (LE 69) was simply fantastic. This gourmet version of a rather basic soup was a bit heavy, but the modest-sized portion was just right. Shrimp, tender cod and salmon chunks, and one large mussel were in the soup, which was topped with freshly cracked black pepper by our friendly waiter. The amount of seafood in the soup was sparse, however.
My friend started with the Gravlax (LE 78), thin slices of house-cured salmon fillet lightly spread with sweet dill mustard sauce and paired with a small cucumber salad that tasted pickled. The salmon was incredibly moist and tender, and had a meaty consistency that made it savory and mouth-watering. The natural flavors of the cured salmon left an indelible mark on our palates. Nevertheless, I felt that a touch of lemon juice would have made the flavors pop even more.
My friend and I were then served our entrées, but not before being asked to choose our favorite colors from a selection of steak knives with pink, red, green, blue or yellow mother of pearl handles. Presented in what resembled a cigar box, the existence of such a choice left us entertained. We went for the green and blue. A bit silly, but it was one of the more memorable moments I have experienced in fine dining.
I feasted on the Double Lamb Chops (LE 220), since I believe a good lamb dish (and risotto) attests to the caliber of any restaurant. My friend, however, chose the Angus Tenderloin Steak (LE 250). Both were served medium rare, as per our request, and were perfectly cooked; the meat of both was still slightly red and oozing with burgundy-colored juices, yet firmer in consistency than rare fare.
Each was accompanied by a small dish of fine mustard sauces; one spicy and smooth, the other coarse grain. We also had a choice of one sauce each to go with our meat: béarnaise, black pepper cream, glazed shallot or garlic thyme jus. My friend paired his thick slab of sumptuous beef with the black pepper sauce, while I matched my lamb chops with what I thought would be more unique: the garlic and thyme jus. Both did not disappoint, though our meat was of such high quality and cooked so well (minimal fat, maximum flavor) that the sauces weren’t necessary.
The main meat entrées came with a minuscule serving of steamed vegetables – literally just a carrot and maybe a piece or two of zucchini. Considering the price, I expected more, especially since the pieces of meat were not very large. Each of my two lamb chops was smaller than the palm of my hand. That’s not saying much – I’m only 5 foot 1 (1.5 meters). Then again, the starters were so rich and the meat so filling that perhaps more was not needed. Halfway through my flavorful lamb chops I was already quite full.
My friend ordered a side dish of Steak Fries (LE 25), and while not bad, they were hardly memorable. Other appetizing main dishes included Ostrich Fillet (LE 149) and the Smoke Roasted Norwegian Salmon (LE 175), which comes with a mushroom salad in apple horseradish broth. Side dishes, which range from LE 25 to LE 65, include Glazed Carrots, Potato Mushroom Stew and Truffle Mashed Potatoes.
Like any good song or race, a great dinner must finish well. At the Oak Grill, it definitely did. A big fan of mousse, I relished the Coffee and Chocolate (LE 45), made with Valrhona coffee chocolate mousse and mocha crème brulée with almond crisp. My friend, who always abstains from eating mousse, reluctantly accepted a spoonful of the light and bitter coffee-and-chocolate-flavored concoction, which wasn’t too sweet. Much to his surprise, he found it delicious. Every spoonful packed a punch, thanks to the tart, sugar-glazed bing cherries served alongside the mousse, which was brick-shaped and supported on two sides by almond brittle.
All of the above, as well as a bottle of water (LE 18) and a bottle of Shahrazade (LE 200), tip and taxes cost about LE 1,200, but left us extremely happy and satisfied with our evening.
Oak Grill
Conrad Cairo Hotel
1191 Corniche Al Nil
Tel: 2580-8440
Open daily from 7pm to midnight
Submit
your comment
Top
|
