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NILE -SIDE CHILLIN'
BY SARAH BROBERG
In the heat of an early summer evening there’s no place better to relax than with good friends, delicious food, the majestic Nile and, of course, air conditioning. Sway Restaurant and Bar, a new creation opened on the former site of the Cleopatra nightclub in Zamalek, is offering a reprieve from the summer heat in a cool, comfortable setting.
Located on the bank of the Nile in Zamalek, the indoor restaurant’s floor-to-ceiling windows offer a fantastic view of the river, while keeping out the clouds of gnats that might otherwise spoil the mood. The colorful wall decor, unpretentious furnishings, subtle lighting and chain-link curtains give the place a laid-back retro vibe. Come early and you’ll find business execs having an after-work drink at the sleek, well-stocked bar; come later and the happy hour hotspot is a see-and-be-seen venue.
The two-tier layout offers a lower level area to fully absorb the outdoor scenery, while the slightly raised upper level provides more intimacy, but also boasts a landscape view. Several square tables of dark wood are positioned throughout the airy space with cushioned, low-back rounded chairs that allow guests to get surprisingly comfy.
For maximum comfort there’s a lounge area with plush sofas located just off the entrance and next to the window. This is the place to unwind after a busy day, but come early as it’s also prime real estate.
While the friendly and attentive wait staff made us feel right at home, the dim lighting made us feel a little too at home. Soon we were yawning in the twilight. A large candle illuminated our table, but we requested another in order to better take in the chef’s handiwork. We perked right up once the menus were presented.
Sway’s extensive drink selection includes everything from liqueurs and mixed drinks to whisky and wine at reasonable prices. The food menu is equally diverse, with everything from traditional Egyptian mezze to Japanese sushi to decidedly American steak and potatoes.
For starters, we opted for some hot and cold mezzes, ordering the stuffed vine leaves (£E 18), baba ghanoug (£E 14) and labnah (£E 14) – all perennial palate pleasers that serve as a litmus test for a restaurant’s ability to prepare food. Delivered quickly and decoratively displayed, they passed with flying colors.
The plate of meticulously packed and folded vine leaves – each so small as to border on cuteness – was quickly emptied. The warm, tender and juicy leaves were packed with a fragrant combination of minced beef and rice. An accompanying dish of yoghurt salad added flavor made for good dippings.
The baba ghanoug, meanwhile, proved to be tasty, thick and garlicky – perfect for dipping the complimentary fresh, warm rolls and shami bread. The labnah was smooth and mild, topped with an adequate dose of olive oil and a pinch of mint to add flavor.
Moving on to the main course, the farfalle pasta with shrimp and salmon (£E 30) was an indisputable winner. The pasta was expertly prepared in an exquisitely creamy white sauce made with heavy cream and a generous amount of butter. A handful of medium-sized shrimp and an ample portion of flaked salmon made the dish so tasty that the side of shredded parmesan cheese went entirely unnoticed.
Not that the sweet and sour chicken (£E 30) wasn’t tasty. The tender chicken was lightly fried in a delicate batter that allowed the taste of the marinated meat to mingle with the flavorful sauce. The sauce itself – chock full of hearty red and green peppers, a bit of onion and chunks of pineapple – managed to maintain the delicate balance of sweet to sour. A side of steamed rice and thin french fries accompanied the dish.
The Sway sweet chicken (£E 30) was a departure from the traditionally sweet dishes made with sugar. Instead, the entrée was prepared by marinating juicy, grilled chicken in grape juice and raisins, which created a sweet, yet slightly tart sauce. Plump raisins and a dash of cilantro gave each bite a burst of flavor. The unusual dish was served with steamed rice and fries, as well as flavorful sautéed vegetables, including broccoli, green beans, carrots and zucchini.
The entrées had us stuffed, but the dessert options were too tempting to pass up. We sampled the honey cake and chocolate marquise mousse cake (£E 22/serving each). The two medium-sized slices of the traditional loaf-style honey cake were served chilled and sprinkled with almond slivers and powdered sugar. The light, moist cake, sweetened with honey, was infused with the evocative flavors of cinnamon and coffee, while raisins and almonds gave it a lovely texture.
The chocolate marquise mousse cake, meanwhile, was a dense and rich chocolate mousse cake chilled and covered with chocolate butter cream frosting. A thick chocolate sauce, with just a hint of mint, seemed far too decadent.
Having satisfied our appetites and dodged the heat for one night, we bid the Nile adieu and headed out into the warm breeze. But with a hot summer ahead, we’ll be sure to return.
Sway Restaurant and Bar
3 Gabalaya Street
Zamalek
For reservations call 012 178-5785
Open from 12pm to 3:30am
Dress code is formal or smart casual |
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