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Spicy Offerings In Raj Style

SPICY OFFERINGS IN RAJ STYLE

BY SARAH BROBERG

Maharaja Indian restaurant, the most recent addition to the Ramses Hilton hotel’s line of fine eateries, takes its name from the ancient Sanskrit word for “high king.” While the restaurant caters to clientele of slightly less royal origins, its inviting façade of floor-to-ceiling glass, well-appointed furnishings and rich fabrics hint that you’re in for something special.

Although not particularly large, Maharaja has a spacious, airy feeling on account of its open tandoori kitchen and elegant mirrors lining the back wall. Hardwood floors, plush carpeting, as well as fine linens and china create an upscale atmosphere, while the understated Indian-inspired accoutrements create a sense of elegance.

Perusing the two menus, one specifically for vegetarians, we opted to start with the Mulligatawny Soup (spicy lentil soup, LE 33), a perennial favorite of the British Raj. Although its literal translation is “pepper water,” the hearty broth is more than just a spicy soup. The complicated and aromatic combination of lentils, onion, garlic, ginger, chilies, curry leaves, carrot, apple, potato, chicken stock, tamarind, lemon juice, coconut milk and fresh coriander delivers an unmistakable Indian flavor. Despite its slightly thin consistency, Maharaja’s version had the mark of any good Indian dish – it left a memorable aftertaste.

We also ordered the Cheera Thoran (spinach stew, LE 29), a mild stew made from fresh, finely chopped spinach leaves afloat in a succulent broth of grated coconut, onion, green chilies, turmeric powder, mustard seed and curry leaves. While tasty, the spice-lovers amongst us were disappointed to find the only thing hot about this stew is its temperature.

Moving on, our order of Bhajia (LE 34) consisted of two delicious balls of spicy mashed potato seasoned with garlic, green chilies, cumin, coriander, a dash of tamarind sauce and red chili powder. Lightly battered and fried to a golden brown, the potatoes made for a hearty and somewhat spicy appetizer. It came served with two distinctively different chutneys: sweet mango and savory mint, as well as a sample of spicy Indian pickles.

Meanwhile, the Halyan Aur Baing (deep fried vegetables, LE 34) had its own chutney – made from fresh green coriander ground with green chilies, ginger and lime juice, with cumin and mustard seeds tossed in to give it a bit of kick. The vegetables themselves – sliced potatoes, cauliflower, green pepper, eggplant and zucchini, as well as cheese – were subtly marinated in spices dipped in a light batter and deep fried.

For the main course, we opted for the Gosht Nawabi (lamb curry, LE 89) and Murgh Tikka Massa (grilled boneless chicken, LE 69) with side orders of Subzi Pulao (vegetable rice, LE 29), Laooni Nan (garlic bread, LE 14 a piece) and papadums (chickpea flatbread, LE 12 for two).

The tender boneless lamb pieces of the Gosht Nawabi were cooked in the traditional Punjabi style, which means cooking with ghee (clarified butter) and liberal amounts of butter and cream. The dark mutton curry was rich and thick, with a blend of herbs and spices giving it a fragrant and bold, fiery flavor.

The Murgh Tikka Massa was made with large pieces of succulent grilled chicken cooked in oriental spices including fresh spring onion, garlic, ginger, coriander and a dash of lemon. The dish’s thick, fragrant tomato-based sauce struck a perfect balance, bringing out the grilled flavor of the chicken without overpowering it with spices.

The Subzi Pulao consisted of fluffy basmati rice mixed with onions, carrots, peas and small chunks of lightly grilled feta cheese; hints of ginger, cardamom and cinnamon played on the palate. The large piece of Laooni Nan had its own melody of spices, and was pleasantly stuffed with minced garlic and onions. The papadum proved to be less savory owing to its strong chickpea taste, but fared well when eaten with the chutneys.

At the recommendation of our friendly yet unobtrusive waiter, and after a personal visit by the Indian head chef, we were persuaded to try a dessert he created just for the restaurant, Gajrela (carrot pudding, LE 34), with an optional side of Mövenpick cinnamon ice cream (LE 15 per scoop). The rich pudding, served warm, was made with carrots, cardamom, sugar, milk and cream. The ice cream melted over it for the few seconds it took us to gobble it down and promise ourselves we would be back for more.

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